Uber kudos to Chef Polo Dobkin at Dressler for putting together a delightful menu for the New York Oyster Lovers meetup. It was the first time that I’ve ever experienced all five species of oysters sold in the US on the same plate!
I just glanced at my NYOL Meetup count and apparently this is my 17th (!!!) event. Who knows how many other oyster tastings I’ve been to outside of the group. So it should provide you with some context as to how rare this 5-species sampler is by learning that this is the FIRST time that I’ve ever come across this offering. The fab five (see logo) all in one place? Too good to be true. Credit and thanks must be given to both Chef Polo Dobkin and the W&T Seafood crew for hooking him up with the goods. So thanks guys!
I’m going to keep my comments brief as I am under the weather today. Below is a quick recap of the courses and oysters that were showcased.
First course was a simple and tasty Shooter featuring a plump Cape May Salt Oyster from the Cape Shore of Delaware Bay, NJ and a small glass of tomato water, bloody mary, and mezcal. The combination was potent and refreshing. The Cape May Salt was simultaneously succulent and firm. Also you can’t go wrong with starting with a little booze. Smart move for a Meetup.
Second course was a platter of five flawlessly shucked raw oysters that came chilled on a bed of crushed ice. Years ago I learned about these five species from Rowan Jacobsen’s book A Geography of Oysters. It took thousands of oysters later to finally meet them all at once, together, face to face. The group decided to start with the Kumamoto, a West Coast fan favorite, and work our way to the East. The reason for this technique is that the brininess of the East Coast oysters tend to linger on the palette, so it’s best to start with lighter ones first. Basically the same protocol as any other tasting, whether it’s cheese, wine, sake, etc.
Kumamoto (Crassostrea sikamea) from Chapman’s Cove and Totten Inlet, WA
Some oyster connoisseurs snub the Kumamoto because it’s just “too easy to love.” It’s true, but that doesn’t stop me from showering it with affection. Famous for its deep cup of plush, pillowy, fruity meat, this Kumo fit the bill perfectly. After a couple of chews, the distinct melony sweetness began to emerge fully on my tongue. Great way to start!
Olympia (Ostrea lurida) from Totten Inlet, Southern Puget Sound, WA
Petite and darker colored, this oyster used to cover the entire west coast of North America. Overharvesting, disease, and industrialization practically wiped them out completely. Thanks to dedicated conservation efforts and sustainable farming, this little guy is coming back in force! They are about the size of a quarter but has the punchy flavor of a new penny. Coppery, earthy, bold. Non-apologetic.
Shigoku (Crassostrea gigas) from Washington Coast, Willipa Bay, WA
The name sounds Japanese and that is exactly where this species originated from. It was imported from Japan when the Olympias started to dwindle. Now the gigas is synonymous with the West Coast oyster (not to mention that its cultivated around the world). The Shigoku was the quintessential West Coast oyster: ultra creamy, clean, slightly minerally, and grassy/vegetal.
Wild Goose (Crassostrea virginica) from West Passage, Narragansett Bay, RI
Virginica oysters are native to the North American East Coast and take on a much different flavor profile than its West Coast counterparts. The oysters from Rhode Island are consistently at the top of my list of being the most sweet, plump, and complex of all Virginicas. The Wild Goose did not disappoint. Its liquor was bright and briny and the meat was chewy, earthy, and mildly sweet.
Belon (Ostrea edulis) from Damariscotta River, Edgecomb, ME
The belon is native to Europe, but has been successfully grown on the East Coast. I’ve have Belons from Maine before, but also from Ireland and France. They are also referred to as “plate” or “flat” oysters in Europe due to their shape. The shells are almost round and scallop-like. The taste is unlike any other oyster there is. Powerful, bold, briny, and extremely metallic. The abrasive zinc-flavor hits your salivary gland like a thundershower and STAYS. It can be overpowering and polarizing for some. I happen to crave it. Partially because of the flavor and also because of the firm texture.
The third course was a dainty open-faced crispy po’boy using Sewansecott Oysters from Hog Island Bay, Willis Wharf, VA. I love raw Sewansecott oysters, but the fried version ain’t bad either! I wish that there would’ve been a little less herb dressing though. It slightly overpowered the delicate arugula.
The fourth course was a dashi poached Montauk Pearl Oyster from Montauk, Long Island, NY with braised pork belly, enoki mushrooms, simmered in a broth of dashi, daikon, ponzu, and chives. The broth was amazing. I wish I could have it every morning for breakfast or every evening as a night cap… or both!
Lastly, the dessert was a lemon-orange blossom sorbet accompanied by an almond biscotti. Refreshing, mildly tart, and pleasantly sweet. A wonderful way to bring this wonderful tasting to a close.
I’m so glad that I decided to trek to Williamsburg for this meal despite being sick. I experienced one of the best raw oyster tastings that I have ever encountered and met some very interesting people as well. For those who are in New York and lust over these meals, stop watching and start joining in!
In other news, I am leaving for a week-long relaxation fest in St. Lucia this Sunday with B. Looking forward to some sun, snorkel, scuba, kayaking, sailing, and eating! I wonder if they’ll have oysters on the island… somewhere. If there are, I will be sure to find them out and report back.
City Grit is New York City’s premiere culinary salon — essentially a supper club, but cooler. This month featured several dinners designed by Chef Dave Santos. The chef graciously invited me to his Ode to the Oyster feast several weeks ago, which showcased a five-course tasting of historic oyster dishes with a modern twist (plus an ‘oyster-themed’ dessert).
City Grit is a wonderful venue and I hope that I can persuade you to check out their offerings. Co-founder Jeremie Kittredge ran the “front of the house,” while Chef Dave Santos kept busy in the underground schoolhouse kitchen. Meanwhile the culinary club’s founding chef, FOOD&WINE Home Cook Extraordinaire Sarah Simmons, was away at SXSW having a grand old time collecting elusive Foursquare badges (not that I’m jealous or anything.)
Before the commencement of the dinner, Chef Santos popped out of the dungeon to give an energetic and detailed overview of the journey ahead. It was one about the long-enduring oyster cuisine that incorporated his Portuguese influences. Needless to say, he embraces and materializes his heritage wholeheartedly. Despite having a lot of love for oysters, Chef Santos grew up in a region of Portugal where oysters weren’t prominent in the culinary culture. He could’ve fooled me! The integration of the oyster in these dishes were marvelously crafted. The collaboration of two ends was a hit.
We started off with a delicate amuse (not pictured here, but on Flickr) of Elderflower-cured Sea Trout with oyster-absinthe gel. After an absinthe and oyster pairing experiment at Maison Premiere from a long time ago, I had concluded that those two things did not go well together. Surprisingly, Santos has proven me wrong! The flavors actually do well together if their intensities are on par. Drinking absinthe while slurping oysters I feel may be still too overpowering.
The second course was a plate of three raw oysters — Wild Deepwater Wellfleets from Massachusetts that live in 60 feet of water or more. Wellfleets is a classic East Coast oysters with punchy brininess, a crisp sweet finish, and firm meat. These deepwater varieties delivers on the same profile — high on salinity, with a dash of minerality. They decently meaty, but certainly not fat. For wild oysters, these Wellfleet shells were surprisingly manicured.
Next up: Pickled Giant Peale Passage oysters from Washington in a Pork Belly Salad with onion fondue, arugula, and red cabbage. This course was probably my favorite of the night. The oysters were thoroughly marinated in tangy pickling juices, making them almost take on the brininess of an East Coast oyster! The soft meat complimented well with the crispy pork belly, and the greens helped cut through the richness.
The fourth course was an Oyster Stew made with Salt Pond Oysters from Rhode Island, smoked paprika oil and celery leaves. The creamy butter-colored broth was carefully poured over the celery at the table. The rich, heart-warming stew was one of those things that you’d crave after a rainy or otherwise shitty day. Unfortunately there were no actual pieces of oysters in the stew. It could’ve been easily enhanced with some real oyster meat, giving it more of that great chewy texture that I love.
The fifth course was a fried Oyster Po Boy made with select Louisiana bayou oysters, accessorized with Portuguese potatoes, spiced tomato marmalade, and pickled red onion. I have yet experience a raw Gulf oyster, but can safely say that they’re great when fried! I really enjoyed the casual elegance of this dish. For oyster newbies, it’s an approachable way to get into the shellfish.
Lastly for dessert we had a “New York Cheesecake” with oyster cracker crumble and poppyseed meringue. Clever, clever! It’s probably my second all-time favorite oyster-themed dessert, coming after the chocolate oyster from Lure. The “cake” was also a bit more like pudding, but nonetheless delicious.
Here’s to another memorable oyster dinner for the books. Oysters or not, I highly suggest you give City Grit — and Chef Santos’ own supper club Um Segredo — a try! Besides experiencing new flavors and cuisines, it’s also a wonderful way to meet new people. I swear they need to make a dating service revolved solely around food… it’s such a no brainer.
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